格陵兰连串一:受“冷”落的国度 格林land:A Nation Out In The Cold

Kangaamiut village, in Greenland, is now more accessible thanks to
affordable airfares  / Simon Calder

Kangaamiut村,格陵兰,辛亏负担得起的机票价格,终于得以进来了/SimonCalder(本文我)

The world’s biggest island is now more accessible than ever, thanks to
more affordable flights. Simon Calder explores a country like nowhere
else on Earth.

那座世界最大的小岛,今后比此前别的时候都不难进入了。幸而减价了的航班。SimonCalder在那一个地球上任什么地点方不会有的农村开首了他的探幽之旅。

格林land: twinned with Australia.  格陵兰:澳国的“翻版”

Technically, that’s not true. But it should be.

从法律意义上的话,那几个说法当然是不科学的。可是,真的应该是。

The similarities go deep. Both have a coastal fringe wrapping around a
vast emptiness, best appreciated from on high — between the UK and
Vancouver, or from Singapore to Sydney. Each country has an aboriginal
population with deep traditions, whose roots extend far further back
than the very recent colonies established by Europeans.

澳大圣克鲁斯联邦(Commonwealth of Australia)与格陵兰有深深的相似性。两者都有一条海岸线环绕着三个宏伟的广袤腹地,高空俯视的美景——从英帝国到河内之间,只怕从新加坡共和国到米兰之间。二国都有1个观念深厚的本地人民族,土著民族的足印能够追溯回遥远的过去,远远早于近代亚洲人的殖民统治者。

Some say that Australia is the world’s biggest island, but if you
subscribe to the idea that it’s actually a continent, then Greenland
takes the title.

有人说,澳大卡托维兹联邦(Commonwealth of Australia)是世界上最大的小岛,可是假诺同意澳大金斯敦(Australia)其实是一个大洲的见解,那么,格陵兰正是世界上最大的小岛了。

图片 1

[Tourists at the ice sheet in 格林land (Simon Calder)
面对格陵兰大陆冰面覆盖的行者]

And both have a difficult relationship with the “mother country”:
Australia with Britain, and Greenland with Denmark. Indeed, Greenland is
the country that went into the cold, voting in 1982 to leave the EU. But
the monarch in Copenhagen is Greenland’s head of state, and the Danish
krone is the national currency.

两个国家都与和睦“宗主国”有着丝丝缕缕的涉及。澳大布兰太尔(Australia)与英帝国,格陵兰与丹麦王国。的确,格陵兰是一个“冷”静的国度,一九八五年透过投票退出了欧洲联盟。可是,杜塞尔多夫的国君是格陵兰的统治者,丹麦王国克朗是格陵兰的国度货币。

Having checked both locations, I can say with confidence that Australia
is warmer and sunnier. Greenland begins where Shetland ends, at around
60 degrees north, and extends to just seven degrees short of the North
Pole.

考察过二国的地点,作者得以满怀信心地说,澳大阿里格尔联邦(Commonwealth of Australia)要温暖得多,特别阳光灿烂。格陵兰岛起于设得兰群岛(大不列颠及苏格兰联合王国苏格兰西南边一郡)的极端,从大体上北纬60度,延伸往东,差七度到北极点。

图片 2

Bizarrely, Australia has also traditionally been cheaper to reach
despite being five times further away than Greenland, with the return
airfare for the past 25 years or so starting at around £600 return to
the main cities for deeply off-peak travel. Every time I’ve looked,
Greenland has been a minimum of £850.

奇幻的是,到澳国比到格陵兰岛要远伍倍的偏离,不过去澳洲却是更方便人民群众。过去二五年里,若论双程飞行,或许600法郎就足以运维包括非高峰阶段的过往机票以及部分主要城市的纵深游,每贰回小编都注意一下,到格陵兰的最低价格是850欧元。

But finally, thanks to some creative pricing by the national airline,
reaching Greenland is no longer pricier than Perth.

而是,最后,幸而国家宇宙航行提供了翻新定价,去格陵兰再也比不上去麦纳麦价格高了。

Looking ahead to next midsummer, the lowest return fare from Copenhagen
on the excellent Airbus A330 of Air Greenland is £540, with connections
from the UK to the Danish capital another £60 or so. It offers proper
long-haul standards even though the longest flight on the network is
barely over four hours. There’s lots of legroom and impressive inflight
entertainment — including Coldplay,appropriately —— and for inflight
reading, Suluk (Greenlandic for “wing”).

预测到下贰个清夏,从休斯敦乘坐格陵兰航空公司的A330航班,双程花费将是540美元,再拉长从United Kingdom到丹麦王国都城的60美元开支。那是三个常规的长途旅行规格,尽管网上展现的最长的飞行航班很少有跨越四钟头的。飞机上空间宽敞,设施优良,包括“冷娱乐”——笔者骨子里要说的是“酷玩乐队”的音乐,当然了——机上的阅读物《Suluk》(格陵兰语“翅膀”的情趣)

The inflight magazine for a national carrier can tell you a lot about
the country. Air Greenland’s publication is the only one I have seen
with advertisements for quad bike repairs.

那本国际航空行程中的机上杂志能够告诉你不少有关这么些国度的作业。格陵兰航空公司的这么些出版物是本身唯壹看到的刊登摩托车维修广告的飞行器杂志。

The editorial is intriguing, too. One feature was about a new issue of
Greenland stamps featuring local delicacies: fish heads and raw whale
skin. There’s even an Inuit recipe page, featuring this month a whale in
its own blubber. (“Cut the whale meat into slices, not so thin that they
risk getting dry, and place them on the stone with the melted whale
blubber.”)

侧记编辑得也很有趣。有1个剧情是关于新型发行的格陵兰邮票,介绍的是格陵兰本地美味的吃食:鱼头和生鲸鱼皮。杂志上甚至还配上因纽特人的菜单,介绍说,这几个月鲸鱼会有鲸油。(食谱上说:把鲸鱼皮切成片,不要切得太薄,防止变干,把它们位于石头上,让鲸油融化)

You may, of course, feel that the world’s biggest mammal needs to be
protected rather than devoured, but in so precarious a land the whale
has long been seen as salvation.

Nature has not been generous to Greenland. There are just seven
terrestrial mammals: the stoat and its prey, the lemming, the Arctic fox
and the Arctic hare, the caribou, the musk ox and the polar bear.

您大概理所当然地觉得,那么些世界上最大的哺乳动物应该被怜惜,而不是被吃掉。但是,在那么些生活艰险的岛上,鲸鱼已经长期被视为救星。

图片 3

Those creatures, like the human population, endure on the coastal
fringes. Most of Greenland is an ice sheet, a geographical feature
almost inconceivable in its scale.

那个生物,如同人类,常期生活在海岸边。大多数的格陵兰是1个大陆冰面覆盖,展现着不可名状的神奇地理特色。

The bottom layer fell as snow more than 100,000 years ago. It contains
one-11th of the world’s freshwater. The weight of all that frozen water
depresses the surface by 1,000 feet below sea level; were it to melt,
oceans around the world could rise by perhaps 20 feet.

最尾巴部分覆盖着九万年在此以前的食盐,储存着世界上1/11的淡水。冰块的重量使它们沉在海平面一千英尺以下;若是这一个冰块融化了,世界的水准可能要进步20英尺。

You can wonder at such statistics as you fly across the ice sheet (and
arguably contribute to the warming of the planet).

当你飞过那个冰面包车型地铁时候,你也许对这几个总结数字感到好奇(毫无疑问,飞行增长了地球变暖)

A nation nine times the size of Britain is divided into just four
regions, whose names in Greenlandic may make you shiver. The area around
Cape Farewell, on the tip of Greenland’s icy tongue, is known as
Kujalleq (“South”); Sermersooq (“Much Ice”) is the region around the
capital Nuuk; Qeqqata (“Centre”) runs from north of the capital along
the Davis Strait; and the far north-west is known as Qaasuitsup, meaning
”Darkness”.

以此四倍与大不列颠及英格兰联合王国的地点,分成了四个地段。多少个地段的格陵兰名称能够让你发抖。围绕费尔韦尔海角,在格陵兰冰舌的高档,被称作“Kujalleq”(格陵兰语中“南边”的意味);“Sermersooq”(格陵兰语中“很多冰”的意思)是香岛市努克(Nuuk)地区;“Qeqqata”(格陵兰语中“中央”的情致)从首都北延伸到孟加拉湾(DavisStrait,在加拿客车芬岛和格陵兰岛中间的海峡);最西北的地点称为“Qaasuitsup”,意思是“玉米黄”。

Most of Greenland’s population lives on the western coast, facing across
to Canada, and enjoy the most corrugated coastline in the world: for a
fjord focus, the island is even better than Norway.

绝半数以上的格陵兰总人口住在西岸,正对着加拿大,享有世界上最长的波状海岸线:作为海湾,那一个岛还是减价挪威。

Kangerlussuaq where the plane touches down, is at the head of the
largest incision of all. Indeed, Kangerlussuaq  means “big fjord”. It
curves around the airport and feels like a disused military base, which
is what it mostly is.

Kangerlussuaq,飞机着陆地,是持有飞机到事后的重要分散地。事实上,Kangerlussuaq的意味就是“大海湾”。它弧线型绕着飞机场,感觉仿佛2个放弃了的大学本科营,而其实它的确已经是。

图片 4

The American military boosted the population of Greenland by around
one-fifth when they set up a series of bases for the DEW (“distant early
warning”) line in preparation for nuclear Armageddon. In the conflict
between the US and the USSR, this was the place that put the “cold”
in Cold War.

美利坚合众国军队以百分之二100的百分比进步了格陵兰的总人口的数目。他们在此处创立了1多重远程雷达预警营地,目标是为核世界末日战争做准备。在U.S.和前苏维埃社会主义共和国联盟的争辨中,那是为冷战参预“冷料”的地点。

Since the US military went home, the town has diversified into tourism.
A local guide with aa 4×4 will drive you out to the ice sheet; this is
the place with easiest access to the frozen heart of Greenland. The
first sight, though, as you drive out on a dusty track, is a crashed US
warplane, its metallic entrails scattered across the rock beside the
road.

U.S.军队回国后,这么些都市初始了出境游工作的多经。本地的导游会开车四x四带你去大陆冰面覆盖,那是跻身格陵兰冰川腹地的最不难的进入口。当您在尘土飞扬的路上行驶的时候,起头看出的是,会是一架坠毁的美利坚同盟友军用飞机,金属组件就散落路边礁石上。

图片 5

Man is enfeebled in such a wild, desolate and extreme place. The
landscape, sculpted over 60 million years since Greenland broke away
from the North American tectonic place, is a demonstration of nature’s
might.

在如此偏远的、荒凉的和极其的地点,人类体现很弱小。那里的地势是在格陵兰岛从北美地理板块分化后形成的,已经超(Jing Chao)过四千万年(60
million),是宇宙力量的1个代表作。

Ancient rocks, twisted and jagged, tell of the earth’s restlessness,
while the edge of the ice sheet creaks and shudders. And yet this is not
an entirely alien environment: tough grasses soften your steps, while in
the distance musk ox forage beside a river filled by melting ice.

古老的岩层,蜿蜒崎岖,嶙峋交错,伴随着大陆冰面覆盖吱嘎噼啪和震撼战栗,就如在诉说着世界的心焦不安。那还不是漫天的奇观异景:顽强生存的野草,远处有麝牛正在融化的冰水河边寻找食品,那么些情形让你脚步缓慢下来。

The scene may leave you breathless——as will the exercise of pronouncing
the town’s name correctly. The “rl” in the middle of Kangerlussuaq
requires your mouth to adopt the position for the sound of a short “l”
and then exhale: a breathy “thwl” is the best I can get to the sound. To
master the “q” at the end I shall refer you to Greenlandic for Travelers
by Birgitte Hertling, which recommends this easy procedure: “Just as one
might create air pressure to hold a gargle liquid from running down
one’s throat before gargling, press, hold and then release the air to
produce this special throat sound.”

本条情景只怕让您喘不过气来——就好像你试着想正确读出这几个城池名称的发音时的感想。“Kangerlussuaq”中间的“rl”,须要你的发生短的“l”的鸣响,然后呼气:一个带气息音的“thwl”是本人能做到的一级结果了。要控制结尾的“q”的失声,笔者要向你推荐Birgitte
Hertling著的《旅游用格陵兰语》1书,书中牵线了“q”的粗略发音进度:“就像是你口里含着漱口水时,利用液压的功能让漱口水在喉咙里来回的位移,加压,控制,然后放松,体会那些进度,才能生出那些格外的喉音”。

图片 6

Time to leave town. To explore more widely, you need either a boat or a
plane. Some hardy yachties sail into the big fjord, as do expedition
ships. Alternatively Air Greenland has a fleet of 16 helicopters,
augmented by Dash-8 propellor planes. The latter aircraft fly as
frequently as the weather allows to the capital, Nuuk – pronounced as in
“nuke”.  

距离那一个城池的小运到了。要想进行更广大的商量,你须求船仍旧飞机。有的船艇能够驶入大海湾,也有考查船。可能,格陵兰有1陆架直升飞机,Dash-八螺旋桨飞机。只要天气允许,Dash-八螺旋桨飞机频仍飞往西京(Tokyo)努克(Nuuk)。

“An Arctic metropolis,” claims the tourist board of Nuuk. It looks like
no other capital city I have seen, scattered across a headland that juts
out from the entrance of a complex of fjords. One in four of Greenland’s
entire population of 60,000 people lives here. A Danish pastor, Hans
Egede, founded the settlement in 1728, and a huddle of cottages from
that era still remains.

“那是2个北非常的大都会”,努克旅游局这样介绍努克。它不像本人见过的其他叁个新加坡市城市。散落建在从多少个扑朔迷离的峡湾进口处伸出的海峡口。陆万格陵兰人的二5%容身在努克。HansEgede在172捌年在这边创建了定居点,这多少个时代的窄小的村舍依旧有保存下去的。

图片 7

But the modern town strikes me as a good definition of the word “bleak”,
with a bitter breeze blowing down a glum main thoroughfare. The national
museum, excellent though it is, actually reinforces the notion that this
is a land unfit for human habitation. The early settlers depended on
driftwood from northern Siberia, while for metal they had to rely on
outer space — scraping iron from meteorites that had fallen in the far
north-west of the nation.

但现代的都市给本人的影象,则是一个对“单调”那一个词的很好的概念,刺骨的风吹着一条沉闷的主干路。国家博物馆尽管丰裕棒,但它事实上却也强化了四个概念:那是三个不符合人类居住的地点。早期的居住者靠着来自西伯金沙萨北边的浮木,而对于金属他们只得借助于外空——从深入的西南方向降落的流星的碎铁片。

A few fjords north of Nuuk, the fishing village of Kangaamiut takes you
closer to the soul of Greenland. It is a deliciously colourful place,
with primary-painted cottages tumbling down to the water’s edge. The
Arctic Umiaq Line, the ferry lifeline along Greenland’s coast since
1774, calls here with 21st-century essentials.

Yet evidence around the village provides an insight into heroic
endurance on the edge of an unforgiving land. Down at the harbour, the
water turns scarlet as a seal is skinned. Drying cod dangles from hooks
nailed to walls of cottages.

努克北面包车型大巴多少个小海角,是叫Kangaamiut的小渔村,那里能够让您更接近格陵兰的优秀所在。那是一个得天独厚的情调丰盛的地点,有坍塌在水边的依然保留着古老颜色外墙的农舍,北极木架蒙皮船,沿着加利利海岸有着从1774年起就在那边的渡口救生索,与二一世纪的种种要素交相辉映。

图片 8

山村附近各样一望可知仍旧显得着在那块不宜居住的土地上史诗般的忍耐力。港口下边,被掉皮的海豹的血把水面染成孔雀蓝。风干的蓝鳕悬挂在农舍墙上的钩上。

Yet even with the daily struggle for survival, there is room for the
spirits to soar. Heavenly voices of a local choir drift from the tiny
church, bestowing a delicacy at odds with the landscape.

是的,固然每日都为活着在交火,那里依然有灵魂升高的半空中。本地唱诗班的圣神的声响从小学教育堂里飞舞出来,给偏僻奇异的环境扩大了一丝美好。

Climb beyond the chapel, by way of the local dump, complete with a few
rusting quad bikes. You reach a summit that reveals a magnificent
congregation of land and sea; the best possible conclusion to a journey
along the raw edge of the world.

走过小学教育堂,往高处走,路上是本地的垃圾场,堆放着几辆生锈的摩托车。你到达顶峰时,岛子和大洋的风光尽收眼底。那是你在沿着世界边缘的旅途中可见拿走的最棒的扫尾。

【注1】因为本人住在格陵兰,很想给爱人们介绍一下以此边远地点的风貌风情等。可惜作者尚未好的留影设备和技术,自身的生活也正如干燥。所以,就想翻译些马耳他语资料。如果配图,壹般也会取自原著配图或然大概须要从网上搜寻。译文和配图并不做商业用途。所以要是图片来源哪位网上朋友,请告知,也请见谅。

【注二】作者试着翻译,学习阶段。发到网上,同时也为了寻求获得翻译上的指教。先谢谢!

期望赢得你的协理和匡助。

(文中插图选自原著配图)

原来的文章地址:http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/europe/how-do-you-visit-greenland-nuuk-arctic-adventure-travel-a7234416.html

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